Lyon’s Evolving Brews: Beyond Beaujolais
When you think of Lyon, your mind might immediately conjure images of its rich gastronomic heritage – the bustling bouchons, the Michelin-starred temples of haute cuisine, and of course, the legendary Beaujolais wine region just a stone’s throw away. For decades, wine has reigned supreme in the culinary capital of France. However, a quiet revolution has been brewing, quite literally. Lyon’s craft beer scene, once a niche interest, has exploded in recent years, offering a vibrant and diverse alternative for beer enthusiasts and curious gourmands alike. As a local who’s seen this shift firsthand, I’m thrilled to guide you through the best of what Lyon’s burgeoning craft beer landscape has to offer. Forget what you thought you knew about French beer; Lyon is carving out its own unique identity, blending traditional brewing techniques with innovative flavors and a distinctly Lyonnais spirit.
The Rise of the Lyonnais Brewer
Several factors have contributed to the craft beer renaissance in Lyon. A growing appreciation for artisanal products, a desire for more casual and approachable drinking experiences, and the influence of international craft beer trends have all played a part. Local brewers, often passionate individuals with a deep understanding of their craft, have embraced this momentum. They are not just making beer; they are creating experiences, fostering community, and pushing the boundaries of what French beer can be. Many are deeply connected to the city, drawing inspiration from its history, its ingredients, and its people. You’ll find brewers who are former sommeliers, chefs, or simply passionate homebrewers who decided to turn their hobby into a profession, bringing a unique perspective to their creations. This passion is palpable in every pint poured.
Navigating Lyon’s Beer Havens: Where to Drink
Lyon’s craft beer scene is spread across various neighborhoods, each offering a slightly different vibe. From the bohemian streets of **Le Marais Lyonnais** (often referred to as **La Croix-Rousse**) to the more central **Presqu’île**, there are plenty of spots to discover. Here are some of my top recommendations:
1. Les Brassins de Lyon (The Lyon Brewers)
This is a fantastic starting point for anyone looking to sample a wide range of local brews. Les Brassins de Lyon is more than just a bar; it’s a hub for the local craft beer community. They pride themselves on offering an extensive selection of beers from breweries across the Rhône-Alpes region and, increasingly, from Lyon itself. Their knowledgeable staff are always on hand to offer recommendations, and they often host tasting events and brewer meet-and-greets. It’s the perfect place to get an overview of what’s currently being brewed in the city.
- Neighborhood: Presqu’île
- Vibe: Lively, knowledgeable, community-focused
- Insider Tip: Ask about their “bière du mois” (beer of the month) for a special local discovery.
2. Le Labo Bière
Located in the heart of the vibrant **Guillotière** neighborhood, Le Labo Bière has quickly become a favorite for its eclectic selection and relaxed atmosphere. They champion small, independent breweries and often feature unique or limited-edition beers that you won’t find elsewhere. The space itself is cozy and unpretentious, making it ideal for a relaxed evening with friends. They also offer a selection of gourmet snacks that pair wonderfully with their beers.
- Neighborhood: Guillotière
- Vibe: Hip, laid-back, eclectic
- Insider Tip: They often have a rotating selection of IPAs and sours – perfect for adventurous palates.
3. La Planque
If you find yourself exploring the charming, hilly **La Croix-Rousse** district, known for its bohemian spirit and former silk-worker heritage, La Planque is a must-visit. This bar has a fantastic outdoor terrace, which is a real gem during the warmer months, offering a great spot to enjoy a craft beer while taking in the local atmosphere. They feature a curated list of craft beers, with a good representation of regional producers. The ambiance is always buzzing, especially during aperitif hours.
- Neighborhood: La Croix-Rousse
- Vibe: Bohemian, social, great terrace
- Insider Tip: Go for the “bière artisanale locale” – they usually have a few excellent Lyonnais options on tap.
4. Le Perroquet Boréal
This spot is renowned for its incredibly curated selection of craft beers, with a particular focus on Belgian and French microbreweries. Le Perroquet Boréal has a sophisticated yet welcoming atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where you can truly savor your beer, perhaps with a small cheese board. The staff are passionate and well-informed, eager to share the stories behind the beers. It’s a more refined take on the craft beer experience.
- Neighborhood: Presqu’île
- Vibe: Refined, knowledgeable, cozy
- Insider Tip: Don’t hesitate to ask for a beer that complements a specific food you might be craving.
Discovering Lyonnais Breweries: The Makers
While many bars offer a selection of local brews, visiting the breweries themselves provides an even deeper understanding of the craft. Some breweries have taprooms where you can enjoy their beer on-site, often with a chance to chat with the brewers.
1. Ninkasi
Ninkasi is perhaps the most established and visible name in Lyon’s craft beer scene. What started as a single brewery and bar has expanded into multiple locations across the city and beyond. They brew a wide range of beers, from classic lagers and IPAs to more experimental brews. Each Ninkasi location often has its own unique character, but they all share a commitment to quality and a lively atmosphere. They also often feature live music and food, making them great spots for an entire evening out.
- Locations: Multiple across Lyon (e.g., Ninkasi Guillotière, Ninkasi Part-Dieu)
- Vibe: Lively, modern, music venue
- Insider Tip: Check their schedule for concerts and events – they often pair special brews with the performances.
2. Brasserie des Gives
For a truly artisanal experience, Brasserie des Gives is a gem. Located a little outside the immediate city center, this brewery focuses on traditional brewing methods and high-quality ingredients. Their beers are often complex and nuanced, reflecting a deep respect for the brewing process. If you’re looking for something truly authentic and off the beaten path, this is it. They sometimes offer brewery tours or tasting sessions by appointment, so it’s worth checking their website.
- Location: Outside city center (check website for specific location and opening hours)
- Vibe: Artisanal, traditional, authentic
- Insider Tip: Look for their saison or farmhouse ale – they often excel in these styles.
3. Potion Céréales Craft Brewery
This newer entrant to the scene is making waves with its innovative approach to brewing. Potion Céréales focuses on modern craft beer styles, including bold IPAs, stouts, and sour beers. They often have a taproom attached to their brewery, offering a fantastic opportunity to taste their latest creations directly from the source. The brewers are passionate about experimentation and are constantly releasing new batches, so there’s always something new to discover.
- Location: Varies, check their social media for current taproom status and location.
- Vibe: Experimental, modern, passionate
- Insider Tip: Follow them on social media to stay updated on their latest releases and pop-up events.
The Lyon Craft Beer Experience: Beyond the Pint
What makes Lyon’s craft beer scene so special is its integration into the city’s broader culture. Craft beer bars are becoming social hubs, places where locals and visitors can connect. Many bars and breweries actively participate in local events, festivals, and markets, further embedding themselves into the community fabric. You’ll often find that the brewers themselves are passionate advocates for local produce, and many will happily discuss the origins of their ingredients, some of which might even be sourced locally.
Pairing Beer with Lyonnais Cuisine
While wine has traditionally dominated Lyonnais dining, craft beer offers fascinating pairing opportunities. Consider these ideas:
- Bouchons: A crisp, refreshing lager or a slightly hopped pale ale can cut through the richness of traditional Lyonnais dishes like quenelles de brochet or saucisson brioché. Avoid overly strong or bitter beers that might overpower the delicate flavors.
- Cheese: Lyon has excellent local cheeses. A Belgian-style Dubbel or a complex Belgian Blonde can be fantastic with a mature Saint-Marcellin or a firm Comté. For a creamy chèvre, try a Saison.
- Charcuterie: Hearty, malty beers like a Brown Ale or even a Porter can stand up to the robust flavors of Lyonnais charcuterie platters.
- Modern Cuisine: For the more contemporary restaurants in Lyon, don’t be afraid to experiment. An India Pale Ale (IPA) can complement spicy dishes, while a fruity Wheat Beer might be a delightful contrast to lighter, more delicate plates.
Exploring these pairings can be an adventure in itself. Many bars in Lyon are now offering small plates or charcuterie boards specifically designed to be enjoyed with their craft beer selection, making it easier than ever to discover these delicious combinations.
Getting Around and Practical Tips
Lyon has an excellent public transport system (TCL), including a metro, trams, and buses, which makes navigating the city relatively easy. Many of the craft beer spots are within walking distance of metro or tram stops. Consider purchasing a day pass if you plan on visiting multiple locations.
- Public Transport: Utilize the TCL network. A single ticket is valid for one hour of travel (with some restrictions). Day passes offer better value for frequent travel.
- Walking: Lyon is a very walkable city, especially the Presqu’île and the historic Old Town (Vieux Lyon). Exploring on foot is often the best way to discover hidden gems.
- Language: While many people in the service industry speak some English, knowing a few basic French phrases will always be appreciated. “Bonjour,” “Merci,” “Une bière artisanale, s’il vous plaît” (A craft beer, please) can go a long way.
- Opening Hours: Bars and breweries often have later opening hours, especially on weekends. Some smaller breweries might have limited taproom hours, so it’s always best to check their websites or social media before visiting.
- Reservations: For popular breweries or bars, especially on a Friday or Saturday night, consider making a reservation if possible, or arrive early.
The Future of Beer in Lyon
The craft beer scene in Lyon is dynamic and ever-evolving. New breweries are popping up, established ones are expanding, and the general appreciation for quality, locally-produced beer continues to grow. Events like the annual Lyon Bière Festival showcase the best of what the region has to offer and are a fantastic opportunity to taste a wide variety of beers and meet the people behind them. Keep an eye on local listings and event calendars for these happenings.
As someone who loves Lyon’s culinary traditions but also embraces its modern innovations, I’m incredibly excited about the future of craft beer here. It’s a scene that is both respectful of tradition and bold in its experimentation. So, the next time you’re in Lyon, venture beyond the wine list. Explore the vibrant world of craft beer. You might just discover your new favorite brew, right here in the heart of France’s gastronomic capital. For more on the latest trends and news in the craft beer world, don’t forget to check out dropt.beer’s insights and news blog. And if you’re looking to purchase some fantastic craft beers, explore the offerings at dropt.beer’s shop. You can even find out more about the overall craft beer movement at dropt.beer.
